By Kate Hanley

You’ve pulled your sweaters from the back of the closet, polished your boots, and dusted off your coat collection. But have you also remembered to winterize your moisturizer? Just as cold-weather clothes insulate you from freezing temperatures, your moisturizer protects your face from the drier, harsher air of winter. Wearing the same moisturizer year-round is the equivalent of showing up to ski in a tank top and shorts—likely to leave you overexposed and underprotected.

Although spending 10 minutes in a whipping wind can make you think the cold itself is the culprit of drier winter skin, the true cause is different. “The biggest outside influence on your skin is the humidity level,” explains Barbara Close, author of Pure Skin (Chronicle Books, 2005) and founder of Naturopathica Holistic Health Spa in East Hampton, New York. As the temperature falls, humidity falls with it. And the colder the weather outside, the higher you have to crank up the heat, which causes indoor air to dry out even further. As a result your skin’s need for moisture increases in the winter, particularly on your face where exposure is greatest and your skin is most delicate.

Moisturizer 101
Moisturizer provides two basic types of protection: occlusive and humectant. Occlusives form a seal on the skin that locks existing moisture in. Natural examples include beeswax, nut and seed oils, and shea butter. Humectants, such as honey, seaweed, and glycerin, draw moisture from the atmosphere into the skin. While you can still find moisturizers that have either humectant or occlusive properties, “a good moisturizer will have humectants to attract moisture and occlusives to seal it in,” says Close. “Look for one that has both.” From there, find a combination that suits your skin type and includes only natural ingredients. “A basic rule of thumb to follow when choosing a skincare product: Don’t put it on your skin if you wouldn’t put it in your mouth,” says David Simon, MD, co-founder of The Chopra Center, an ayurvedic spa, in Carlsbad, California. “Anything you put on your skin will be absorbed within 20 to 30 minutes. It’s not evaporating. It’s going into the different tissue layers of your body.”

Dry skin
Dry skin feels tight after cleansing, tends to wrinkle, and may even get to the point where it starts flaking. If you have dry skin and/or live in an arid climate, look for a product with heavier occlusives, such as oils or butters derived from almond, avocado, or sesame.

Sensitive skin
If you blush easily or your skin gets blotchy after being exposed to a cold wind, your sensitive skin needs gentle care. Look for products that contain soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients such as coconut oil, olive oil, German chamomile, or lavender.

Oily skin
With its tendency to be thick and have larger pores, oily skin may be prone to breakouts. Although people with oily skin require a lighter, less occlusive moisturizer, it’s not necessary to completely eliminate oil from your skincare routine. “Your skin produces oil to protect itself from the environment,” explains Simon. “If you remove all oils from the skin, you can become more prone to bacterial infection,” which can only make acne worse, he says. Look for a moisturizer with a lighter, ... [continue to next page]