Natural Beauty—Cold Weather Creams

By Leslie Crawford

Turns out that everything I know today I didn’t learn in kindergarten. Back when I had to trudge a mile (okay, two blocks) in the Colorado snow to school, it was so cold that Jack Frost didn’t nip at my nose, he tried to pry it off. To save myself, and my nose, I was told all I needed were a pair of warm mittens, a thick coat, and a sensible scarf. Given that I was only five, I acquiesced and stuffed myself into a freakishly large puffy pink parka and orange macramé knit scarf. I looked like a tiny psychedelic mummy wandering through the snowdrifts.

Granted, my fashion-be-damned tundra-wear did keep me snug. But as a grown-up, I’ve learned why commonsense kindergarten wisdom is hardly enough to protect my skin against inclement weather. For starters, cold winter air is far less humid than warm air, which means skin will be drier in the winter months. Biting winds make things worse by causing moisture to evaporate more quickly from the skin.

And according to David Voron, a dermatologist in Arcadia, California, indoor conditions in the winter can be just as bad for your complexion. “Indoor heating is disastrous for the skin,” says Voron. “It pulls the moisture out of the air, which of course is dehydrating.”

Then there’s something I never had to consider as a fresh-faced tot romping through the snow: age. “The older you get, the drier your skin gets,” says Voron. “Over time, the glands in your skin get smaller and start atrophying.” This undermines their ability to hydrate. The result? Yes, even drier skin.

So what do we do when it’s freezing outside and our skin is parched? The natural response is to soak in a long, hot bath. Turns out nothing could be worse. “Heat and prolonged immersion strip water from the skin,” says Leslie Baumann, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Miami.

What, then, is the answer? Simple: Moisturize, moisturize, and then moisturize again. “Three times a day, if possible,” Baumann adds. But you’ve got to pick a winter-worthy version.

“Gels are worthless for dry skin,” says Baumann, because they don’t create protective barriers that can seal in moisture. Look instead for products containing ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. (See “Winter Skin Savers,” page 44, for specific recommendations.)

And yes, when you’re outside, you should still cover up. Luckily there are more chic ways to do it these days than with pink parkas and orange macramé.

Winter Survival Guide

Slathering on moisturizing cream is the most important remedy for winter-weary skin. You should also try to: • Humidify. When the heat is on, replace lost indoor moisture by putting a humidifier in the house. Your plants will thank you, too.

• Use steam rather than sauna. At the gym or spa, instead of the dry–and drying—sauna, opt for the steam room. Before steaming, apply a thin layer of massage oil. Your skin will come out buttery soft.

• Pamper fingers and toes. Don’t forget these extremities, which take a particularly harsh beating in bitter climates. To bring them back to silky smoothness, soak feet and hands in warm water mixed with lemon juice and massage oil. Afterwards, rub on cocoa butter or shea butter—both good emollients.

• Bathe with caution. Short showers (using soap-free body washes) are better than baths. But if you can’t give up the bath, says dermatologist Leslie Baumann, “put mineral, sunflower, or olive oil in it, which helps protect against moisture loss.” Afterwards, pat skin gently with a towel and then apply a good moisturizing cream.

• Go for good fats. Foods like fish and flaxseed that are loaded with nutritious omega-3 fatty acids can revitalize skin, says Baumann. Rubbing on safflower, evening primrose, or borage oil also does wonders.

• Be gentle. The jury is out on exfoliants—some say they are too harsh to use on already chapped skin—but if you must use one, the gentler, the better.

• Wear cotton. For clothing that goes next to your skin, avoid fabrics like wool; they subject skin to friction and can dry it out.

• Drink up. Think hydration from the inside. Drinking lots of water is one of the most important things you can do for skin, says dermatologists, in cold weather as well as hot.

• Protect. Don’t forget that the sun puts out damaging rays even during the winter months, so stick with your daily sunscreen.