Natural Beauty—Good Scents

By Allison Hoover Bartlett

Running late, my husband and I rush into the movie theater and quickly scan the place for seats. We excuse ourselves past half a row of agitated popcorn-chompers and settle into the last good ones, feeling lucky. But two seconds later—the length of an average inhalation, in fact—I fear we can’t stay. The woman next to me reeks.

It’s her perfume, a scent that must be equal parts insecticide, nail polish remover, and room freshener. For a few minutes, I try to ignore it. But finally I can’t take it anymore, so we get up, edge our way back out of the row, and find seats in the outer reaches of the theater. Not ideal, but at least we can breathe.

Such olfactory nightmares can almost make you yearn for the days when a fellow moviegoer might be doused instead in patchouli oil—well, almost. The good news is that nowadays fragrance choices are not limited to synthetically produced megabrands and heavy oils better suited to holiday candles. Wonderfully subtle, natural perfumes are growing in popularity, and the evidence can be seen not just in health food stores, but also in specialty boutiques and on countless websites.

That’s partly due to the surge of interest in purer products in general. “It’s a logical follow-up to the organic food movement,” says Mandy Aftel, a natural perfumer and the author of Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume. “People have discovered how much better organic, vine-ripened tomatoes taste, and now they’re looking for those natural qualities in their perfumes.” But it’s also a response to the harsh chemicals in synthetic fragrances.

While my movie theater experience was annoying, it could have been out-and-out dangerous for someone with multiple chemical sensitivities (MCS). For the estimated 15 percent of people in this country who report chemical sensitivity, encounters with irritating substances can trigger such symptoms as headaches, joint pain, shortness of breath, rashes, and dizziness.

As for the rest of us, it’s hard to say for sure whether such products pose a real hazard to our health. Physician Marsha Vetter of the Randolph Clinic Environmental Health Center- Chicago, is chemically sensitive herself, and has noticed that essential oils are less likely to trigger adverse reactions among her patients than synthetic fragrances. “But no formal studies have been done to support this,” she says.

Researchers face significant obstacles to finding out, since fragrance ingredients are considered trade secrets, and perfume companies aren’t required to tell the FDA what their products include. Perfumers have been coming up with cheaper alternatives to natural ingredients since the late 19th century; the result is an industry that’s heavily dependent on synthetic chemicals.

Yet we do know that many chemicals commonly found in perfumes, such as benzaldehyde and phthalates, are known toxins. The European Union, in fact, has banned phthalates from perfumes sold there. Common sense suggests that the less we expose ourselves to such substances the better.

Natural perfumes, by contrast, are made without any of those troubling ingredients—and that may be the most powerful argument for using them. True, most cost more. And they don’t last as long as synthetic perfumes—only about two hours, compared to as long as eight. Still, I’d rather reapply a scent throughout the day than think twice about breathing it in.

Besides, it turns out this may be a healthier alternative anyway. In addition to making you smell better, a pleasing natural scent can make you physically feel better, too, says Alan Hirsch, neurologist and director of the Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago. We all know how soothing it can be when a scent evokes pleasant memories (your mother’s sachets, or a flower you used to grow), and now researchers have documented physiological responses to specific smells as well. “For instance, lavender increases alpha waves, which creates a relaxed state,” says Hirsch, “and the scent of jasmine increases beta waves, making a person more alert.”

So bring on the bergamot, the amber, the geranium—the world will surely be a better place to breathe.

Sniffing Out the Best Ones

Once I began looking for natural perfumes, I discovered a wealth of options. At my local health food store, I dabbed a little Egyptian rose on one wrist, some ylang-ylang on the other, a little sandalwood on the back of my hand—and, before long, was overwhelmed, unable to distinguish one scent from another. Perfumer Mandy Aftel says this is a common problem when trying on fragrances. She suggests doing as the professionals do: testing them one at a time, and then clearing the nostrils by inhaling a few times through a woolen scarf. Here’s what else I learned:

Learn the language. It makes the process more interesting. The more complex blends have “top notes,” scents from herbs, spices, and citrus, which are the first scents you perceive, then “heart notes,” typically floral, which unfold next, and last, the “base notes.” These are deeper scents from barks, resins, and roots, and they last the longest. Be patient. Over time, scents change on the skin, especially complex blends, so if you’re not sure about the sample you’ve just sprayed on your wrist, follow that advice they always give at the fragrance counter in department stores: Wait a while. What begins smelling a little strong may soften into a scent you love.

Check for pretenders. Some so-called natural perfumes don’t list specific ingredients because manufacturers are not bound to disclose them—so they may not be the real thing. I’ve found, though, that the nose knows: I usually can sniff out impostors. And if that doesn’t work, look for the ingredients on the company website.

Natural Perfumes

Here are some of my favorites, all of which were subtle enough to draw me in and rich enough to hold my interest. They’re pricey, but that’s because pure essential oils cost a lot more than synthetic fragrances.

Aftelier Perfumes
An exquisite line of perfumes from Mandy Aftel, in Berkeley, California, who chooses from more than 500 essences to conjure these liquid and solid scents. She also creates custom blends through private consultations—in person, by phone, or by email.
Price: $125–$150 for 1 quarter-ounce
Contact: aftelier.com

Patyka
A European company following the tradition of a Hungarian apothecary recently created this line of six perfumes made with organic plant extracts. From floral to earthy, all of them are luscious.
Price: $98 for 50 milliliters
Contact: aedes.com

Oshadhi
This longtime manufacturer of essential oils for aromatherapy offers a line of nearly 20 perfumes. Containing the highest-quality oils and organic French grape alcohol, they span the range from delicate scents, like “Allure,” to bolder options, like “Roots.”
Price: $32 for 50 ml.
Contact: oshadhiusa.com

Amma’s Rose
Inspired by an Indian spiritual leader, this lovely blend of rose and sandalwood from EO Products is a heady scent that starts out delicate and warms to something deeper.
Price: $35 for 0.4 oz; $10 for .03 oz
Contact: eoproducts.com.