Bronze Beauty: Why bake when you can fake?

By Sally Wadyka

Hard to imagine, but there was a time when a suntan was the opposite of chic. Back then, fashionable women kept their skin as pale as possible—and not from a fear of skin cancer. Ironically, now that we know how much damage the sun can do, the fashion police have deemed a tan de rigeur. They call it a “healthy glow” or a “sun-kissed” look, and thankfully, beauty companies have devised dozens of ways to bronze without ever having to expose your skin to the damage of ultraviolet (UV) rays.

But chemical tans may be a slippery slope—controversy abounds over whether the popularity of fake tans keeps people out of the sun, or actually encourages them to seek out the real thing. A study published last year in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that fair-skinned individuals who used sunless tanning lotions in the previous 12 months were also more likely to have gotten a sunburn or used a tanning bed in that same time period.

Still, fake tanning lotions and bronzing powders are a safe substitute for the sun. “Tanning was popularized decades ago, and you can’t change cultural ideals overnight,” reasons Sue Ellen Cox, MD, a dermatologist in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. “Topical self-tanners provide a safe way to give the appearance of a tan without the UV radiation.”
Whichever method you choose—self-tanners, bronzing powders, or glow lotions, the trick to making your “tan” look real, according to New York-based makeup artist Bret Miedel is “to key the shade you use to your natural skin tone.”

Here’s how faux glow products work:

Self-tanners. Slather on one of these lotions (gels, mousses, or sprays) and within a few hours your skin will start to develop a “tan.” Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an ingredient common to all self tanners (including those by natural beauty companies), causes this reaction. Basically a simple sugar, DHA combines with the outer layer of skin to make it turn brown. “It temporarily stains the skin and then fades—just like a suntan—as the dead skin cells are shed,” explains Cox. The color (and the chemical) doesn’t penetrate beneath the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin). The ingredients watchdogs at the Environmental Working Group consider DHA nontoxic and safe as long as it isn’t used near the eyes.

Bronzing powders. Designed mostly for use on the face (and possibly down to the neck and chest), bronzing powder offers a low-commitment method for giving the skin a sun-kissed boost. Many of the versions from natural beauty companies will contain mineral pigments to impart a glow to the skin.

Glow lotions. Somewhere between self-tanners and body makeup, these lotions can give bare arms, legs, and décolletage a temporary tan (sometimes with a hint of shimmer) that washes right off. A perfect solution for times when you don’t want to wait for self tanner to take effect, or when you want to experiment with color.

And of course, remember that none of these types of “tans” provides any protection from the sun. So be sure to be as vigilant as ever with the sunscreen anytime you head outdoors.

Sally Wadyka is a Boulder, Colorado- based freelance writer who specializes in health and beauty.

Top Tanners
You can get your faux glow on…naturally! These products all pass the no-harmful-ingredients test, plus they look amazing.

Alba Botanica Sunless Tanning Lotion (www.albabotanica.com) It absorbs into the skin quickly and the natural-looking color starts to show up within three hours.

Zia Age-Defying Sunless Tanner (www.zianatural.com ) This moisturizing formula contains vitamins A and E plus essential oils to help soothe skin while it “tans.”

Afterglow Organic Glow Bronzer (www.afterglowcosmetics.com) Talc-free and preservative-free, this loose powder uses organic mineral ingredients—plus skin-protecting antioxidants like grape seed extract—to pamper even the most sensitive skin.

Jane Iredale So-Bronze (www.janeiredale.com) This is portable compact contains a universally flattering terra cotta shade shot through with specks of gold.

Nuxe Paris Poudre Eclat Prodigieux Multi-Usage Compact Bronzing Powder (www.nuxe.com) Thanks to the micronized pearly particles, this powder creates an optical illusion of smoother skin, plus the vitamin E fights free radicals.

Pure & Basic Glitter Up-Shimmering Body Lotion (www.pureandbasic.com ) Apricot kernel oil, jojoba, and vitamin E soften the skin, while naturally derived mica adds sparkle.

Arcona Bronzer/Self Tanner (www.arcona.com) This lotion does double duty: The rich shea butter formula contains pigments to “tan” skin instantly, but it also uses DHA (the self tanning ingredient) to help skin develop longer-lasting color over time.

Beyond the Pale
It’s easy to sport an ersatz tan, but armed with a few secrets from New York makeup artist Bret Miedel, your fake can look flawless.

• Always exfoliate before using any kind of tanner or bronzer. For self-tanning lotions it’s especially important to scrub at elbows, knees, and ankles to be sure extra tanner doesn’t collect on those rough areas.

• When in doubt, start with a lighter shade and work your way toward a darker one.

• Put on all of your makeup—including blush—before applying powdered bronzer. Use a large brush and sweep it anywhere the sun would hit—forehead, upper cheekbones, nose, chin, and even chest.

• The key to making bronzer look natural is to blend, blend, blend. And if you’ve accidentally applied too much, sweep over the area with translucent powder and blend some more.

• Be careful to keep glow lotions away from clothes, because some of them will transfer from skin to fabric. Best to target bare legs, arms, and chest.

• Apply moisturizer to drier areas—like elbows, knees and feet—before applying self tanner. It will spread better and go on more evenly.

• If you accidentally end up with self-tanner streaks or dark splotches, use a pumice stone or emery board to scrub them away.

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Beauty companies have devised dozens of ways to bronze without ever having to expose your skin to the damage of ultraviolet (UV) rays.

“Topical self tanners provide a safe way to give the appearance of a tan without the UV radiation.”

Ironically, now that we know how much damage the sun can do, the fashion powers that be have deemed a tan de rigeur.