Summer Skin Solution

By Sally Wadyka

Every time we go outside, we face one of life´s unfortunate ironies: What we treasure the most seems to have a nasty habit of exacting revenge on us if we overindulge. Take those spirit-raising rays of sunshine: Soak up too many, and they'll deliver potentially deadly ultraviolet (UV) radiation. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, sun exposure causes more than 90 percent of all skin cancers. One in five Americans may develop skin cancer during her lifetime.
In an interesting, wouldn't-you-just-know-it twist, however, research has recently emerged about the benefits of sun exposure. One of the body's main sources of vitamin D is sunlight, and a deficiency of that nutrient has been linked to increased risk of several types of cancer as well as to autoimmune diseases. In a study published this year, researchers at Stanford University School of Medicine showed that when sunlight triggers vitamin D synthesis, it causes immune cells to travel to the outer layers of skin where they can help repair cellular damage.

Does that mean you can toss out the sunscreen? Not so fast, warn dermatologists. While this latest research on the benefits of sunlight seems somewhat theoretical, science holds no doubt about the proven dangers of UV rays. Plus, you can get most of the vitamin D you need through diet and supplements, and the amount of unprotected UV exposure required to synthesize vitamin D is actually fairly minimal—about ten minutes two to three days a week.
Not only is the sun the No. 1 cause of skin cancer, it also hastens skin aging. Wrinkles, sagging, uneven skin tone, and brown patches all result from overexposure to UV light. "It's incontrovertible that being in the sun chews up collagen and elastin in the skin," says Alan Dattner, MD, a holistic dermatologist at Integrative Medicine and Dermatology in Manhattan and New Rochelle, New York. UV rays produce harmful particles called free radicals. Left unchecked, these free radicals damage the DNA of skin cells (which can lead to melanoma and basal cell carcinoma) and cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin (the connective fibers that give skin its elasticity and firmness). For proof of the sun's aging powers, compare the skin on your buttock cheek with that on your face. The skin on your derriere still looks relatively smooth, with few if any wrinkles. Your face can show subtle signs of aging even as early as your 20s or 30s.

The ABCs of SPFs
When reading sunscreen labels, pay attention to the sun-protection factor, typically listed as SPF plus a number. A product with an SPF 15 (the minimum recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation) will block about 93 percent of UVB rays—the ones that cause tanning and burning. SPF 30 will block about 97 percent, and even lotions with an SPF of 50 or higher probably block no more than 99 percent, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. "Higher doesn't necessarily mean better," says Joel L. Cohen, MD, chair of patient education for the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery. "Because to get that higher SPF number, the product may contain a higher concentration of potentially irritating chemical ingredients."
The other caveat? SPF refers only to the amount of protection you're getting from UVB rays. While ample proof exists that UVA rays do just as much damage to skin—causing signs of premature aging as well as raising the risk of skin cancer—knowing exactly how much protection you're getting from UVA rays remains elusive. Hedge your bets by looking for a sunscreen that promises "broad spectrum" protection, which means it contains ingredients that filter out both UVA and UVB rays.

How you apply sunscreen is just as important as what you apply. According to the recommendations of the Skin Cancer Foundation, you need to apply a full ounce of sunscreen to protect your entire body adequately, and you need to put it on about 30 minutes before heading outdoors so the ingredients can bind with your skin. For a day outdoors, reapply about every two hours—more often if you take frequent dips or sweat profusely.
And when applying sunscreen, don't neglect your scalp. A non-oily spray sunscreen is perfect for spritzing on your part. "A visor is great for keeping sun off the face, but since you can get skin cancer on your scalp, it's better to wear a brimmed hat to cover your scalp and head," says Cohen. Hair—unlike the scalp—can't get skin cancer, but dermatologists warn that hair can dry out and lose its luster when exposed to too much UV light.

A protection problem
OK, so you need to shield your skin to save it from both cancer and premature signs of aging. How do you do it safely but without slathering yourself in chemicals you probably don't want on your skin?
Try seeking out sunscreens that contain so-called "physical" blockers to divert UV rays away from the skin. The two most common ingredients in this category are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. "They block UVA and UVB," says Ben Fuchs, a cosmetic chemist, and founder of Sanitas Skincare. The downside, he points out, can be lotions with a "thick, white, and not very cosmetically elegant" consistency. To solve that problem, chemists have come up with "micronized" versions of these molecules, using nanotechnology to create particles so tiny they can't be seen on the skin.

That solution, unfortunately, has potentially created an even bigger problem. Some research suggests that these nanoparticles can penetrate the skin and find their way into the lymphatic system. At a meeting last October, the FDA looked into these ingredients, and the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) presented studies showing that the ingredients don't penetrate the skin. "But they are not conclusive, and there are still a lot of unknowns," says Kristan Markey, a research analyst at the Environmental Working Group. Zinc, he explains, is a natural nutrient, so there's a good possibility that even if it does penetrate the skin, the body could make use of it. "But at higher levels, there is the potential for some chromosomal damage," says Markey. "The industry's take is that it isn't going into the body. But if it does get in, it doesn't look good."

Similar debates over the safety of various common sunscreen ingredients have recently come to the fore. Studies on lab rats have shown that benzophenone and octy-methoxycinnamate have estrogenic activity (meaning they can disrupt hormones). Avobenzone (also listed on labels as Parsol 1789) offers protection against UVA rays, but, ironically, it also breaks down when exposed to sunlight. "Once it breaks down, it can penetrate the skin," says Markey, "and what happens then is totally unknown and not understood." Two recent additions to the sunscreen ingredient list may help. Helioplex (which Neutrogena has patented) and the recently FDA-approved ingredient Mexoryl both work to make avobenzone more stable. "On its own, avobenzone is a really unstable chemical that may be gone in 20 minutes," says Cohen. "But if it is stabilized by the other ingredients, the result is much more effective UVA blocking."

Cover up
Most experts agree that the risk of burning your skin in the sun is still much worse than any potential risks that may come from a sensible application of sunscreen. But other options may be worth experimenting with. "If you're worried about putting something on your skin, sun-protective clothing is a great alternative," says Cohen. A company called Coolibar (www.coolibar.com) markets hats, clothing, and swimwear made with titanium dioxide–containing microfibers that diffuse up to 98 percent of UV rays. Cohen also uses SunGuard, a protective laundry additive. You wash your clothes with it to infuse the fabric with a UV-blocking ingredient called Tinsorb (www.sunguardsunprotection.com).
In addition to watching what you wear, it can help to watch what you eat. "The antioxidants found in fruits and vegetables are what protect those plants from the sun," says Fuchs. "And they can have the same effect on your skin." Applied topically in sunscreens or antiaging serums, antioxidants (like vitamins C and E and green tea) also help boost the skin's own defenses against sun-induced free radical damage.

Sally Wadyka is a freelance writer who lives, works, and slathers on sunscreen in Boulder, Colorado.

Leave-No-Trace Sunscreens
One of the newest buzzwords in sun
protection is biodegradable. The issue becomes particularly important in areas where sunscreen washes off in water and may damage delicate ecosystems, such as coral reefs. Several resorts in Mexico and Costa Rica actively encourage their guests to apply only biodegradable sunscreens. Look for products by All Terrain, Rocky Mountain, Lavera, Aubrey, Kiss My Face, and Jason Natural Organics. These sunscreens are safe to use in places that recommend biodegradable products.

Skin-Friendly Sunscreens
For the skin
Alba Botanica Mineral Sunscreen
Also fragrance free, this new, titanium dioxide–based lotion does not contain controversial ultrafine nanoparticles (see page 33). It's also formulated with organic lavender and aloe to soothe sun-exposed skin.
SPF 18 ($9.95, www.albabotanica.com)

Derma e Anti-Aging
Moisturizing ComFlex
This light, easy-to-blend sunscreen can be worn day or night. Green tea, olive oil, and cucumber extract enrich this versatile moisturizer.
SPF 15 ($19.50, www.dermae.net)

Lavera Kids Plant-Green Sun Spray
Colored with a fast-fading green pigment so you can track application, this waterproof, biodegradable sunscreen needs no advance application and does hold up under water.
SPF 25 ($26.50, www.lavera.com)

All Terrain Performance
Sunblock AquaSport
Designed for dunking and splashing, this sunscreen is one of the hardiest sunscreens we reviewed. All Terrain recently reformulated to remove all parabens from their line of sun protection for outdoor enthusiasts.
SPF 30 ($9.99, www.allterrainco.com)

Erbaviva Sunscreen
Erbaviva's baby line, eschewing all synthetic ingredients, is safe for children and adults alike. Lightly scented with organic essential oils of lavender and chamomile.
SPF 15 ($28, www.erbaviva.com)

Ole Henriksen Sun-light Protection Crème with Green Tea
Formulated specifically for dry skin, this shea butter–based creme includes green tea and grape seed oil, powerful antioxidants believed to slow the aging process.
SPF 30 ($28, www.olehenriksen.com)

Nature's Gate Be Solective
Sunscreen for face
A sunscreen created for delicate facial skin that offers UVA/UVB protection plus an antiaging complex derived from walnuts.
SPF 30 ($14.99, www.natures-gate.com)

For other body parts
Shikai Color Reflect Mist
& Go Conditioner
Sunflower extract and UV filters protect hair—dyed or not—from fading, while panthenol provides extra moisture for sun-frazzled hair.
($8.25, www.shikai.com)

Dr. Hauschka Sunscreen Stick
Take care of your lips, nose, and ears with this heavy-duty, lifeguard-style protection. Doesn't blend in without some work, but will make you look like an outdoors aficionado.
SPF 30 ($14.95, www.drhauschka.com)

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