Under the Sea

By Claudia Silberlicht

I first tasted seaweed at age 15 when my father took me to a Japanese restaurant in New York City. I must admit I had serious misgivings about eating it. All I could picture was the slimy, green algae that wrapped itself around my ankles and between my toes whenever I waded in the ocean. Yet the soup that arrived at our table was a lovely shade of green, with a delicate, smooth taste. I was hooked, and I’ve relished sea vegetables ever since.

Not only does seaweed taste good, but life in the briny ocean packs the algae with a wide spectrum of essential minerals and trace minerals in easily assimilated forms. In fact, ounce for ounce, seaweed is richer in minerals (which make up 7 percent to 38 percent of its dry weight) than any other food. Decades of research suggest that sea vegetables—loaded with protein, fiber, and vitamins—strengthen the immune system, reduce cholesterol and blood pressure, and even help ward off cancers, especially of the breast. A 2005 animal study published in the Journal of Nutrition, for example, suggests kelp (a type of seaweed) may decrease the risk of breast cancer and other estrogen-dependent diseases. The researchers at the University of California, Berkeley, say a connection may exist between seaweed consumption and the low cancer rates in Japan. “Brown kelp seaweed makes up more than 10 percent of the Japanese diet,” comments Christine Skibola, the study’s lead author. “Our study suggests that kelp may contribute to these reduced cancer rates among Japanese women.”

Health savvy folks in the US are following Japan’s example, and a growing number of groceries stock numerous varieties of seaweed in dried, powdered, and flake forms. Many top seaweed companies—such as Eden, Maine Coast Sea Vegetables, Rising Tide, Emerald Cove, and Mitoku—ensure the quality and purity of their wild sea vegetables, usually harvesting them by hand at the right time and carefully screening for contaminants like pesticides, herbicides, or heavy metals. Wild-crafters (traditional farmers who pick the seaweed) believe such careful handling techniques (as opposed to mechanical harvesting) enhance the seaweed’s healthfulness. “The energy and intensity of the plant is quite different when harvested by hand,” notes Jill Gusman, cooking instructor and author of Vegetables From the Sea (William Morrow, 2003). “It’s like eating organic versus nonorganic foods.”

You can reap the benefits of seaweed in myriad ways—and without having to eat enormous quantities of it. Although more than 160 species are eaten worldwide, six varieties—alaria, arame, dulse, hijiki, kelp, and nori—are the most common. From salads and soups to pastas, breads, and stir-fries, sea vegetables complement almost any dish. So go ahead, see what the tide brought in.

Alaria~This yellow-brown frond grows on rocky, exposed shorelines in North America. High in vitamin B, one serving also delivers more than the recommended daily allowance (RDA) of calcium. Very similar to wakame, alaria has a delicate, smooth taste that goes well with soups, seafood chowders, and stews, though it needs to be cooked for at least 20 minutes. For a chewy snack, munch on raw alaria after soaking it in water for a few minutes.

Arame~Beneath the coastal waters of Japan, thin, black tendrils of arame wave from the rocks. This aesthetic addition to any meal provides high levels of iron, iodine, potassium, and vitamins A and B. If you’re watching your salt intake, this low-sodium seaweed’s for you. The mild, sweet taste makes it a perfect choice for the neophyte. Cook arame for 10 minutes, and then sauté or simmer it with vegetables until tender. Arame blends well with most dishes but is particularly tasty in pilafs, salads, and stir-fries.

Dulse~Native to the North Atlantic and Pacific Northwest, this purplish-red frond constitutes a favorite traditional snack in Ireland. One serving meets your daily vitamin B6 quotient and provides plenty of iron. It also gives you vitamin B12, a nutrient rarely found in plants. For a chewy, jerky-like treat, add this salty, slightly tangy seaweed to trail mix. Or dip it in water, tear, and put on sandwiches or salads. Even more adventurous: Roast it in the oven at 250 degrees until crisp, and then crumble it onto your entrées.

Hijiki~People in Japan credit this seaweed for their lustrous, smooth hair, as well as their general good health. Meaning “deer-tail grass” in Japanese, the black, noodle-like hijiki grows along the coasts of Japan, Korea, and China and packs the most calcium of all the sea vegetables—more than 10 times the amount in a glass of milk. It’s also rich in vitamin A and carotenes. Its mild, licorice flavor offers a gentle initiation into the world of seaweed. Simmer it with soybeans and vegetables, and add to stews, casseroles, and soups. Hijiki quadruples in size when cooked, so you only need to add a little.

Kelp~The principal types of kelp include wakame (an all-star soup ingredient), edible kelp (found off the East Coast), and kombu. A good source of selenium, iodine, and the vitamins C, A, D, E, and K, kelp is often used to aid digestion, alleviate arthritis, and bolster immunity. When you cook kelp, don’t remove the white powder on its surface—that’s where much of the flavor resides. This sea veggie works well in fish and meat dishes, soups, and bean dishes (the glutamic acid helps tenderize beans, making them more digestible). To make your own kelp “potato” chips, roast the kelp in a little bit of sesame oil at 300 degrees for two to four minutes.

Nori~At low tide, this amorphous, diaphanous vegetable resembles dark purplish bags wafting on the water. Nori has the most protein of all seaweeds—and twice the amount found in red meat—along with more vitamin A than carrots. The thin sheets are rolled on sushi or added to rice balls. With a sweet, nutty flavor, it also tastes delicious toasted and lightly coated with soy sauce or sesame oil; either crumble it on grains, salads, and vegetables, or eat it plain. When not in the thin-paper form, nori is called laver, which you can hydrate and add to salads and soups. The Irish also often roll it into oats to use in making bread.

Recipes

Wild Rice and Hijiki
1/3 cup wild rice
1/2 cup brown rice
2 3/4 cups vegetable or chicken stock (or water)
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 medium carrot, diced
1 small bunch scallions, sliced, with some green tops
1 cup diced shiitake mushrooms
1 tablespoon tamari
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup hijiki, soaked 20 minutes, rinsed, and drained

In a medium saucepan, combine wild rice, brown rice, and stock or water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer, covered, until rice is tender, about one hour.

About 10 minutes before rice is done, heat sesame oil in a medium saucepan, and sauté carrots, scallions, and mushrooms until carrots are just tender, about five minutes. Stir in tamari, garlic, and toasted sesame oil, and cook for one minute.

Add cooked rice mixture, pecans, and hijiki. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, or refrigerate and serve chilled.
Nutrition information per serving: Calories 311; Protein 7 g; Carbohydrates 38 g; Total Fat 14.6 g; Saturated Fat 1.6 g; Cholesterol 0 mg; Sodium 533 mg; Fiber 4 g

Wakame Salad
1 2-inch segment fresh gingerroot
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon tamari
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice syrup or honey
1/8 teaspoon white pepper, or to taste
1/3 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
2 1/2 cups soaked (20 minutes), rinsed, and drained
wakame, cut into 1/4-inch strips
6 scallions, very thinly sliced (white parts only)
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

Grate gingerroot. Squeeze ginger over a small bowl to extract juice; discard pulp. To the ginger juice, add rice vinegar, tamari, toasted sesame oil, rice syrup or honey, white pepper, and red pepper flakes. Whisk together until smooth.

In a medium bowl, combine wakame and scallions. Add dressing, and mix with hands to combine. Add sesame seeds, and refrigerate for several hours to let flavors blend.
Nutrition information per serving: Calories 91; Protein 2 g; Carbohydrates 11 g; Total Fat 4.7 g; Saturated Fat 0.7 g; Cholesterol 0 mg; Sodium 410 mg; Fiber 1 g

Red Lentil Stew With Arame
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
1 celery rib, diced
6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 cups dry red lentils
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon white pepper, to taste
1/4 cup soaked, rinsed, and drained arame

In a medium soup pot, heat oil and sauté onion, carrots, and celery for seven minutes. Add 6 cups stock, the lentils, and garlic. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, slightly covered, for 25 to 30 minutes. Add white pepper and arame, and serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving: Calories 255; Protein 17 g; Carbohydrates 41 g; Total Fat 2.9 g; Saturated Fat 0.6 g; Cholesterol 0 mg; Sodium 1,050 mg; Fiber 10 g

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